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Kebabs, Fragrant Biryani and So Much More: An Indian Metropolis Earns a Spot on the UNESCO Culinary List.

Biryani cooking using the time-honored Dum method
Biryani in Lucknow is simmered on a gentle, slow heat, with the pot's lid tightly sealed with a paste of flour.

Delectable kebabs, fragrant biryani, and whipped, cloud-like desserts.

The metropolis in India's north of Lucknow has consistently been a haven for gastronomes, with residents and travelers alike praising its exquisite cuisine.

An International Accolade

Last month, The United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization designated it as a Creative City of Gastronomy – including it in a exclusive group of world cities and sparking hopes that it will spotlight Lucknow's sublime food. With this status, it becomes part of a worldwide network of over 400 metropolises across over 100 countries focused on promoting "innovation as a catalyst of sustainable urban development".

The accolade "is a testament to its profound culinary traditions and dynamic food ecosystem," as noted by a official from UNESCO's Regional Office for South Asia.

Lucknow is merely the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was selected in 2019 – to secure a position in this coveted list of 70 cities internationally.

A Metropolis Shaped by Cuisine

The accolade for this time-honored city comes as no surprise to its inhabitants or dedicated food lovers. Many share the opinion that it is "a recognition that was delayed".

With the UNESCO accolade, this cherished, chaotic, and vibrant city – the capital of India's most populous state – is now in the spotlight for what has perennially defined its soul: an immense devotion for food.

"'The day's menu, the method of preparation' is a constant discussion from waking up until going to bed in many homes," explains a local cultural expert. "And you are truly assessed by the excellence of food that is produced in your kitchen."
Succulent kebabs being served
Lucknow is celebrated for its incredibly tender kebabs.

An Imperial Food Tradition

The City of Nawabs – as it's popularly called after its historic wealthy Muslim rulers – is renowned for its succulent kebabs and a singular take on biryani that were invented, evolved, and taken to exquisite levels in their imperial kitchens.

These imperial kitchens were epicenters of culinary innovations, blending Iranian and local Indian styles to create what became known as the food of Awadh.

It was in that period that Lucknow's iconic kebabs were fashioned. Legend has it that the mutton galouti was created to feed an ageing nawab who had lost his teeth. His cooks processed the meat with papaya, kesar, and spices and made it so fine that it needed no chewing.

But perhaps the greatest contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a gentle, leisurely heat, with the pot's lid tightly closed with a flour paste.

A Diverse Culinary Landscape

In addition to the well-known kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also developed a collection of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a sweet bread pudding).

However, Lucknow is far more than kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a vegetarian's paradise.

The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine doesn't just celebrates local ingredients but also gives the city its exquisitely crafted Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – tangy fried snacks.

Cloud-like dessert Makkhan Malai
The city presents unique seasonal delights, such as Makkhan Malai, a special airy dessert, during winter months.

Time-Tested Food Joints

Almost on many street corners, there are tiny kiosks and stalls – lesser-known gems that are extremely loved by the locals.

In the central district of Hazratganj, large gatherings start gathering from early morning at a legendary tea stall to get a steaming cup of spiced tea with milk, served in earthenware cups, along with pillowy soft buns lathered with hand-churned white butter.

For breakfast, one can make their way to a simple joint situated in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was set up, the place is still much sought-after for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).

Iconic tea stall serving masala chai
A renowned tea stall is known for its milky masala chai.

Ensuring Legacy Continues

The city also offers unique seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a frothy dessert available in the winter. The process of making it is intricate and complicated. The cook whisks the milk and then leaves it out at night, allowing the dew to give it its incredible airy feel.

On crisp mornings, street vendors line up in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. Many but say that their children do not want to take up the craft.

A celebrity chef from Lucknow has often said that the city's rich food legacy places it among the best of the Indian street food experience. The real value from the UNESCO recognition, however, will materialize only if Lucknow can now create awareness about its under-the-radar eateries.

Every dish in Lucknow tells a story – crafted by multi-generational food businesses, from modest street carts to bustling restaurants, and guarded family recipes.

The international acclaim, it is hoped, will motivate more people around the world to learn these stories and travel to the city to taste the culinary delights of Lucknow.

MS
The writer

Michael Schmitt

A London-based journalist passionate about uncovering the city's vibrant culture and stories.

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